![]() ![]() Loving the Star Wars quotes and references. The Doominator is such a fun blaster to mess around with! Outdoor Nerf War practicality is questionable (since I'm not sure how strong of a spring it will be able to manage), but for indoors or stock powered Nerf Battles, this thing will be a beast! :D give it a crack open and give this mod a try it might make you feel like it's money well spent, maybe you will even crack a smile :) So before you go slamming the Doominator as a waste of money and throwing it into the bin. Obviously taking my word for it might not be enough for you, but when I do a video review and mod guide of it from start to finish when I do up Tom's Doominator, I'm sure that'll clear up any doubts! It makes it harder to prime, but it is bearable, particularly if you have the priming handle mounted sideways rather than vertically. The only problem with adding the stronger spring is when priming, the rail that connects the handle to the plunger assembly tends to flex a bit due to nature of the metal primng rod being located *above and away* from where your holding the priming slide / handle. Adding an 7kg spring definitely boosted the range and power, but interestingly wasn't *quite* the range of an OMW Solid Kit Strongarm (but pretty close though). I did a rudimentary range test this morning, and while adding the Longshot Front gun spring helped make sure the plunger face got a good seal, it didn't add any extra range compared to stock spring. Considering I got a dud, this has saved an otherwise useless blaster. Before the best I could get was 2 meters, but now is acceptable out-of-the-box grey trigger ranges. So, after this massive wall of text and pictures, does this all actually help improve the Doominator's lack-luster performance to something of worth.? But after upgrading to an OMW 7kg Strongarm spring, with a 1cm plastic spacer to help compress the spring (without pushing the plunger face too far forward) this gives ample fire power. If the spring is too long, the plunger face will push forwards too far, thus not being able to lever-action rotate the cylinders, or even prime to rotate to the next dart.Īt first I added a Longshot Front gun spring which aided by making sure the plunger face was a little closer to the cylinders to fire darts, but not too close. If the spring is too short, you won't get enough compression, thus a loss in fire power (and a horrid rattling sound).Ģ. Notice the length this is important for adding / changing springs! It needs to be *almost* the same length otherwise the following happens:ġ. The spring on the left is the ZS Doominator spring, on the right is an grey-trigger Strongarm spring. Once you remove the plunger tube, the mystery to the poor ranges will stare you in the face (as indicated by this convenient Cyan arrow and exclamation mark below): I'll show it in a video tutorial, but suffice to say that the top priming rod, plunger rod and all the parts attached to it are easy to remove by lifting them *away* from the internals cage on an angle. Make sure the priming rod is facing the correct way up as well (since the under-side of the rod has the ridges facing the wrong way and Slam-Fire won't work on that side!). I didn't take a pic, but along the centre of the priming rod shaft is little angled notches that the arm clicks into as the blaster is primed - kiiiiinda like a Sledgefire's guts. Remember that see-saw catch? Without this arm piece, you wouldn't be able to prime the blaster while holding down the trigger for Slam-Firing. Ironically without this arm, you could de-prime it but no Slam-Fire =_= Secondly the little arm thing on top is the Slam-Fire mechanism that keeps the priming rod primed when the trigger is held. The piece directly touching the spring does two things first it holds the spring in place when primed. It has a screw holding it in place, so by removing the screw you can take everything on the priming rod off - including the spring :D hooray for easy spring replacement! Interestingly it has a black rubber pad behind it to help soften the blow when returning back towards the plunger tube/spring cap (the orange piece behind it). The back of the plunger rod has a cap which acts as the part that locks into the catch.
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